Of fairy chimneys and flying balloons: visiting Cappadocia

Cappadocia is one of Turkey's most famous and most photographed destinations, but no photo can prepare you for the experience of being in the middle of this other-worldly landscape. Eerily moonlike, yet dotted with colorful flying balloons, Cappadocia is like no other place on earth.

Lodging
When in Cappadocia be sure to stay in a cave hotel. There are many available, from simple pensions in Goreme to upscale hotels in Urgup. Most of the younger backpacker set stay in Goreme, but I was travelling with my parents so I stayed with them and the other, ahem, mature travelers in the Elkep Evi in Urgup. The Elkep Evi is an elegant cave hotel, with each room uniquely furnished with local rugs, ceramics and wall hangings. 

Sights
Everywhere you look there's something to see. But if you want to pack the most into your visit consider taking a tour, either with a group or on your own. Renting a car and driving around yourself is another possibility, but I'm not sure it's worth the trouble. We had our hotel book a guide for us, and at 9:00am we began our tour.

The first stop was the valley with the curious rock formations known as "fairy chimneys". They are formed over millions of years from volcanic ash and water. You can see all stages of their development: the semi-attached fat chimneys are younger than the separate thin ones. Some of them resemble other things. There's a rock that looks like a camel, one like Napoleon's hat, and even one that looks like Bugs Bunny.

The next stop was the Goreme Open Air Museum. This museum is the remains of a nunnery and monastery (with an underground tunnel between them, of course), including several churches with frescos from the 10th-12th centuries. Christians built their living quarters into the caves so as not to be discovered.

The next stop is Uchisar, for the panoramic view. I wandered off and bought a little nazar (evil eye) necklace and spoke a bit with the guy selling them who told me he was born in the area. "I am cave boy", he said. He also asked me to go out for a drink.

Our tour continued, after a lunch of pide (Turkish pizza) at a pastoral spot overlooking a river. Then it was on to the village of Avanos where we visited Onumlu Ceramics to watch these works of art being made. I even got a shot at the potter's wheel myself. 

We then went to a rug factory where we learned how single and double knots are made and how the wool is dyed with natural ingredients.  We were again offered coffee before being shown award-winning rugs worth over 100.000 Euros, and of course several selections designed for sale.  Nothing in the souvenir price-range though.

Our last stop was at Turasan Winery where we tasted several local reds.  Some were quite good, and gave us an idea of what to look for on future wine lists. 

Eating
Cappadocia has no shortage of good restaurants. Two I can recommend are Somine, in beautiful downtown Urgup, and Dimrit, which is up the road out of town on the way to the Elkep Evi. Dimrit also offers a spectacular view from it's terrace, and an atmospheric vaulted interior that feels like a cathedral.  Somine had the most memorable appetizer; a single giant manti. Manti (often called Turkish ravioli) are usually tiny things too small to have room for the chopped lamb that's supposed to be inside. This manti was more like a cannelloni, stuffed with delicious seasoned chopped lamb. Manti are a specialty of this region, so be sure to try them during your stay here.

And don't forget to order wine! Cappadocia is wine country and most restaurants have a good selection.

Hot air balloons
A popular activity in Cappadocia is the balloon ride. The passenger basket of the balloon is divided into four sections. Having failed to force myself to the front of the line I was the last to board a basket that appeared already full. But balloons are filled with numbers of people, not weight, so I was forced into an already tight quadrant with three large people.   At least I didn't have to worry about being cold, or falling down.  I was well insulated and couldn't move. 

The movement of the balloon is almost imperceptible; it's more like a gentle floating. The only distraction is the sound of releasing the hot air into the balloon every so often. 

About the author : Ellen Rabiner has been writing about travel since her teenage years on the road as a violist in a youth orchestra. After college her focus shifted to singing, although she did some creative writing as a lawyer. She returned to singing as a soloist at the Metropolitan Opera and is currently traveling and writing from her home in Antalya, Turkey. You can check out her website, Talking Turkey.

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If you want to see these charming fairy chimneys for yourself, take a look through our trips to Turkey and find the oen that inspires you. Then order a free brochure or read one online.

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