The Ancient Art of ‘Carpet-Bagging’ in Morocco

Whenever I go away to some far-flung part of the world, I always like to come back with some reminder of my travels. Shopping for me (and I’m showing my feminine side here) is all part of the fun of exploring the local culture.

I’m also not just talking about the little things like statues of Buddha or colourful South American ponchos (which have never been worn, EVER, especially since I got married!) but big meaty souvenirs to take me back to the time that I was in a small market in the backstreets of Jaisalmer, furiously haggling over a couple of dollars.

My house is adorned with various reminders of my travels, like the intricate Nepalese prayer wheel, or the enormous wooden hippo from Botswana, but one of my favourite souvenirs is the Moroccan carpet I brought back from Marrakech. Not only because it’s a beautiful piece, but also because of the fun I had in getting it!

The Djemma El Fna is the main square in Marrakech, filled with performers, acrobats, snake charmers, water sellers, food stalls and the strangely comforting hustle and bustle of Morocco. Leading away from the square is the labyrinth of winding alleyways of Marrakech souk. Upon entering you immediately get sucked into a world a million miles and a thousand years from home. Each different area of the souk has a speciality, with each individual shop trying to out-do each other in enticing clients to enter the shop. It’s a barrage of noise, colour, aroma and excitement unlike any other I know.  

Morocco is known for its carpets, and Marrakech is one of the best places to buy them. Having selected a suitable carpet emporium (they are always an emporium, never a shop) the buying process as always the same whichever one you choose. A hearty greeting for anyone who walks through the door will always include an invitation to drink a glass of the heavily sweetened mint tea, the local drink of choice for discerning hagglers. Whilst the refreshing tea in being taken, the show begins – an able assistant will unfurl anywhere up to 300 carpets in front of you, whilst the owner regales you with the history and processes of carpet making, and of course the why his particular carpets are the very best. The carpets will be of all imaginable sizes and a myriad of different colours, qualities and tastes; and the fact that they have gone to so much trouble in unrolling 300 carpets invariably makes you feel guilty enough to buy one! Whenever there is any mention of price you are always met with the same answer – “you don’t have to buy, we’re just friends – you just look now!”

Having selected the perfect carpet, and after some serious haggling, and many many glasses of mint tea, a deal will finally be struck and everyone will be happy. You because of the superb price you paid for the beautiful carpet that at home would have cost four times as much, and the owner for selling a carpet that cost him a quarter of the price!

My carpet now takes pride of place in my living room, and every time I look at it I am transported to a million miles and a thousand years away, back to the Marrakech souk. At least until my wife continues to nag me about throwing away that poncho!

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